Bajaur District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan

Bajaur District: Geography, History and Culture.

Bajaur is a tribal district, one of the seven tribal districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. It is located in the north-western part of the province and shares borders with Afghanistan to the north and Mohmand Tribal District to the south. The district has a rich history and has been inhabited for thousands of years.

The district was historically a part of the Gandhara civilization, and archaeological evidence suggests that the area was inhabited as early as 5000 BCE. In the 7th century CE, Bajaur became a part of the Hindu Shahi kingdom, which ruled the region until the 11th century. Later, the area was controlled by various Muslim dynasties, including the Ghaznavids, the Mughals, and the Durranis.

In the 19th century, Bajaur came under British control and became a part of the British Raj. During this period, the district was largely isolated from the rest of the country, and the British administration did little to develop the area. However, the area did witness some development, including the construction of roads, bridges, and schools.

After the independence of Pakistan in 1947, Bajaur became a part of the newly formed country. In 1973, when Pakistan adopted a new constitution, Bajaur was designated as a tribal district and was governed under the Frontier Crimes Regulation (FCR), which gave tribal elders and local jirgas (councils) significant authority over local governance.

However, in 2018, the government of Pakistan abolished the FCR and merged the tribal districts with the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, giving them the same legal status as the rest of the province. The merger was part of a larger effort by the government to mainstream the tribal areas and bring them into the national mainstream.

The present situation in Bajaur Tribal District is complex. The area has been affected by the ongoing conflict in Afghanistan, which has spilled over into Pakistan. The district has also been a target of terrorist attacks, particularly from the Tehreek-e-Taliban Pakistan (TTP), which has a strong presence in the area.

However, in recent years, the situation in Bajaur has improved significantly. The government of Pakistan has launched several development projects in the area, including the construction of roads, hospitals, and schools. The security situation has also improved, with the Pakistani army conducting several successful operations against militant groups in the area. Moreover, the people of Bajaur are slowly adjusting to the new legal framework that governs the district. Local elections were held in the area in 2019, giving the people of Bajaur a greater say in local governance.

In conclusion, Bajaur Tribal District has a rich history and a complex present. The area has been affected by conflict and terrorism, but recent efforts by the government have brought about positive changes. The people of Bajaur are slowly adapting to the new legal framework that governs the district, and there is hope that the area will continue to develop and prosper in the years to come.

District Bajaur is a district in Malakand Division of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province in Pakistan. Until 2018, it was an agency of Federally Administered Tribal Areas, with merger of FATA with Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, it became a district.

Bajaur District

Profile

Area: 1,290 Sq KM
Population: 1,093,684
Languages: Pashto
Tehsils: 8
Number of Village Councils: 120
Number of Neighborhood Councils: 7

Tehsils

District Bajaur has eight tehsils.

1) Bar Chamer Kand Tehsil
2) Barang Tehsil
3) Khar Bajaur Tehsil
4) Loe Mamund Tehsil
5) Wara Mamund Tehsil
6) Nawagai Tehsil
7) Salarzai Tehsil
8) Utmankhel Tehsil

The Origin of The Name Bajaur

The origin of the word Bajaur is uncertain and nothing is exactly known as to when and how this name was given to this area. However, according to one version it was derived from the Persian word Baj (tribute) and awardan (to bring). Legend is that the area of Bajaur once belonged to a tribe called Arab upto the time of the Pathan conquest and was ruled by the Chief of Arab tribe, therefore, it denotes the area which paid tribute to the Chief, or which paid tribute to the Hindu dynasty of the day.
According to the version of the common man of the area the word Bajaur denotes an area which has been ruled by powerful tribal chiefs with force Bajaur in the annals of history. However, the empirical facts and historical data support the first version about the origin of the word Bajaur.

Prior to 1960

Prior to 1960, Bajaur Agency remained a semi-independent territory and was considered an inaccessible area. The whole area was under the influence of various Khans i.e. the Khan of Khar, the Khan of Nawagai and the Khan of Pashat, etc. In 1960, Bajaur was declared as a subdivision of Malakand Agency and an Assistant Political Agent was appointed with his headquarters at Munda in the Dir district. Bajaur was declared a Federally Administered Tribal Agency (FATA) in December 1973.

Location adn Boundary

It’s administrative headquarters is at Khar, at a distance of about 140 kilometers north of Peshawar connected through a metalled road via Mohmand distrct and Malakand district. The land mass of the District Bajaur lies between 34° 30′ and 34° 58′ north latitudes and 71′ 11° and 71′ 48° east longitudes. The green valleys of Bajaur are situated in the north-west of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The Bajaur is surrounded by Dir district on the north-east, Afghanistan on the north-east, District Mohmand on the south-west and Malakand on the south-east. The total area of the Bajaur is 1,290 square kilometers.

Geographical Features

The terrain of the Bajaur is mountainous and hilly. In the northern part mountain ranges are 3,000 meter high. Towards the south the height gradually decreases and on the southern border, peaks are slightly over 2,500 meters high, in the central part, the height further decreases. In the north-western half, the land slopes down to the south-east direction while the central parts slopes to the north-east through the Jandol Khwar and Panjkora river. The Panjkora River flows in southern direction till it joins the River, which flows along the eastern boundary of Bajaur district.

Tribes: Utmankhel and Tarkani

The two major tribes inhabiting the agency are:- Tarkanai and Utmankhel. They are the off shoots of Yousaf zai tribe. Tarkanai out-number the Utmankhel as regards their population. However, Utmankhel on the other hand occupy a large area. Tarkani tribe is further sub-divided into six sections, namely, Salar zai, Mamund, Chamar kand & Charmang, Nawagai and ex-state of Khar. Similarly, Utmankhel have seven sections i.e. Aseel, Shamo zai, Mandal, Lar-trass, Bar-trass, Arang and Ali zai.

Bajaur Life Style

Food :- Simplicity is the hall-mark of the food of the people of Bajaur. Rice is a staple dish especially for dinners. Maize bread with local vegetable Saag and Lassi is offered to guest as a seasonal specialty in summer.
Dress And Ornaments :- People wear the traditional Pukhtoon dress of Shalwar Kameez and head-wear. Generally, the people wear hand made Dir caps while notables wear Pugri and Kula, but this tradition is gradually fading out. Women folk wear Shalwar Kameez and Chadder/veil and for Purdah they use Burkas (veil).


House & Qila :- Mostly the houses are made of mud through out the Bajaur. The houses are called Qila that is fortresses, which encompasses a number of houses inside. A house generally consists of two or three rooms with a verandah in the rear and front. Joint family system is in vogue in the agency. Every cluster of houses has a common sitting place called Hujra where the male members daily meet, discuss and share views on variety of local, national and inter-national issues with each others. It is a common place and is also used as a guest room. The young spend winter nights in Hujra and arrange for themselves music programmes or dishes as a pass time activity. It is an important part of Pakhtoon culture which is unfortunately changing with the modern times as people have begun to prefer using personal guest-room

Occupation

The people in the agency are not widely educated. They migrate to down districts in search of jobs or any other labour. Government services are a cherished source of livelihood for many. Agricultural farming, small scale business and working on daily wages basis are also major providers of job and sources employment in the agency.

River and Streams

A number of springs and streams of sweet water flow through out the agency and serve as clean water sources for drinking and irrigation Rud is the major stream which drains the main Khar – Nawagai valley and flows from south west to north – east and discharges into Munda Khwar at a village called Kulala (Bajaur).

Places of Interest

Simandaro is the area historically known for arrival of the Alexander the Great to this area in pursuance of his conquests. A few shrines in the agency are also historically known. These are Ghazi Baba, Sakhi Baba, Shiekh Baba and Mir Ali Baba. Besides, the tomb of sakhi Arab Khan, Governor of this area under Mughals at Naway Dhand on outskirts of Khar is also of some historical importance.

Bajaur Climate

The agency has extreme climate. The winter season begins in November and lasts up to March. The winters are extremely chill and cold and sometimes temperature plunges below freezing point. December, January and February are the coldest months. The mean maximum and minimum temperatures in these months are in the range of 5 to 16 degree Celsius. The summer season lasts from May to October. June, July and August are the hottest months. The mean maximum and minimum temperatures in this period is in the range of 23 to 36 degree Celsius.

Mining and Marble

Extensive deposits of marble are found at several places in Bajaur. The marble is associated with the calcareous rocks in the malange zone. The marble is processed in different green and block colours. The marble is processed in different marble factories in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and in other parts of the Pakistan.

Khar Subdivision

About / Introduction

Khar Sub Division is the main subdivision of Tribal District Bajaur. It consists upon 03 major Tehsils of Bajaur i.e. Tehsil Khar the most populated Tehsil, Tehsil Salarzai the bordering are of the subdivision with Afghanistan and Tehsil Utmankhel the bordering area of the tribal district with District Dir Lower.

Geography

The Tribal District Bajaur/ex-Agency is  the smallest unit of the erstwhile Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA). Geographically, it holds strategic importance for Pakistan and adjoins Malakand Agency on the southeast, Dir District on the northwest, Mohmand Tribal District on the southwest and Afghanistan on the northwest.

Climate

The climate of Khar subdivision is moderate cold in the north i.e. hillock of Salarzai and south i.e. hillocks of Serisar. This is moderate in the central area stretch from north to south. The winter season is most sever due to excessive rain fall and snowfall in the north and south. In the central areas the summer season is extreme. The monsoon rains well here in Khar subdivision especially in the hilly areas of Salarzai.  As a whole, the northern hills of Bajaur  can be considered as a transition zone. The terrain of the agency is hilly, rugged, barren, and mostly arid. The hills in the district have been more or less completely denuded due to the dry climate of the area and excessive deforestation.

Culture and Heritage

There is no major and famous cultural heritage in Khar subdivision. However, Lungi is the culture of the tribesmen. Hujra and Tang Takor is one of the famous cultural norms. Gabbar Cheena, Seri-sar, Sikandaro, Kohimore and Navy Dhand, Masjid Androon Khar and Eidgah Masjid are some historical places.

People and Tribes

The people of Khar subdivision are commonly simple, hardworking and devoted. Most of them are linked with the profession of farming and a reasonable number of educated people engaged with government services. Though, there is no major business and the ratio of businessmen is very low, however, some people are engaged with the business of vehicles bargaining and property dealing. The people of Utmankhel are mostly autonomous and farming in their respective qaumi shares of landed properties, whereas, the people of Khar and Salarzai Tehsils are mostly (in past) under the control of Khans or Maliks. Now a days the people of Khar and Salarzai are considerably autonomous with passage of time and political awareness. There are two major tribes i.e. Tarkani and Utmankhel in the Khar subdivision. Tarkani comprising of the area of Salarzai except Mandal and Bartrass Shamozai (who are Utmankhel) and area of Tehsil Khar except Alizai and Maram Ghundai premises who are Utmankhel. The total population of Tehsil Utmankhel is Utmankhel by tribe. The tribes are divided in subtribes and section/ subsections further.   

Languages

The mother language of Khar subdivision is Pashto. Being laboring, running business and trading in other provinces the people are well familier with Urdu. The minorities of Khar subdivision are urdu/ Punjabi speaking.

Famous Personalities

Political Figures

  1. Syed  Akhunzada Chattan (PPPP, Ex-MNA).
  2. Mr. Gul Afzal (ANP).
  3. Mr. Shahabuddin Khan (PMLN, Ex-MNA).
  4. Molvi Wahid Gul (JI).
  5. Sahibzada Haroon ur Rashid (JI Ex MNA).
  6. Molvi Abdur Rahseed (JUI, Ex Senator).
  7. Mr. Anwar Zeb Khan (PTI).
  8. Mr. Sardar Khan (JI).
  9. Mr. Lali Shah (ANP).
  10. Haji Khan Bahadar (PPPP).
  11. Mr. Aurangzeb Inquilabi (PPPP).
  12. Mr. Sirajuddin Khan (JI).
  13. Mr. Muhammad Anees Khan (PPPP).
  14. Haji Said Badshah (JUI).
  15. Mr. Ahmad zeb Khan (JUI).
  16. Haji Said Ahmad Jan (PTI).

Local Elders

  1. Malik Qadar Khan of Alizai.
  2. Malik Muhammad Rahman of Batai.
  3. Malik Rabool Jan of Alizai.
  4. Mian Masood Jan of Khar.
  5. Mian Saidur Rahman of Khar.
  6. Muhammad Dawood Khan (Tehsil Khan) of Khar.
  7. Mr. Ahmad Ali Khan of Khar.
  8. Mr. Humayun Khan of Inayat Killi.
  9. Malik Hifzur Rahman of Dehrakai.
  10. Malik Muhammad Yar of Kassai.
  11. Malik Ghulam Rasool Khan of Matta Shah.
  12. Malik Hazrat Noor Talay.
  13. Malik Nawaz Khan of Kohi.
  14. Malik Fachai Khan of Kohi.
  15. Malik Abdul Nasar of Nazakai.
  16. Malik Dilo Gul of Salarzai.
  17. Malik Abdul Wahab of Loesam.
  18. Malik Saaz Muhammad of Mandal.
  19. Malik Muhammad Amin of Mandal.
  20. Malik Khan Mian of Mandal.
  21. Malik Umar Wahid of Shandai Morh.
  22. Malik Akbar Jan president of Sadiq Abad Bazaar.
  23. Malik Muhammad Zaman of Inayat Killi Bazaar.
  24. Malik Fida Muhammad of Kulala.
  25. Malik Gran Bacha of Toorghundai.
  26. Malik Muhammad Akbar of Bandagai.
  27. Malik Sultan Zeb of Bandagai.
  28. Malik Said Hakim of Bandagai.
  29. Malik Shahi Bakht of Bandagai.
  30. Malik Shahi Bakht of Manodehrai.
  31. Malik Dafoor of Hayati.
  32. Malik Amir Nawab of Arang.
  33. Malik Younas Umar of Gorrai Arang.
  34. Malik Peshawar Khan of Arang.
  35. Malik Nasar Khan of Bado Arang.
  36. Malik Hussain of Khar.

Religious Figures

  1. Mufti Javid Iqbal of Qazafi.
  2. Mufti Hanifullah of Khar.
  3. Molvi Ahmad Noor of Khar.
  4. Qari Rahmatullah of Khar.
  5. Molvi Muhammad Idrees of Zoorbandar.

Sub-Divsion Specialty

Specialty of the subdivision is that the people of hardworking, devoted and famous of hospitality. They are politically matured. This subdivision is dominant and Tehsil Khar is considered as center of the whole district. Almost all the departments and government installation are installed here in Tehsil khar i.e. specific Khar area. All head of the line departments are here in Civil Colony Khar the hub of the district and the whole district is being run from here. 

Markets/Bazars

Pashat Bazaar, Raghagan Bazaar, Khar Bazaar, Inayat Killi Bazaar, Sadiq Abad Market, Yousaf Abad Market, Qazafi Market, Mulla Killi Market, Loesam Market Sikandaro Market, Qazafi Market and Tawheed Abad Arang market.

Graveyard

Graveyards have been allocated by the locals on the basis of their respective villages and specific areas. Some famous Graveyards are Dosai, Jar, Kanaser, Pashat, Loesam, Ghazi Baba Arang, Batai Alizai, Chinagai Utmankhel, Hayati, Manodehrai, Bandagai, Kulala, Mandal, Tangi Charmang, Tangi Salarzai, Raghagan, Inayat Killi, Inzari, Haji Lawang, Tang Khatta, Chingazo, Shandai Morh, Rashakai, Zoorbandar.

Attractions

Tourist attractions (Historical, archaeological, tourist.)Gabbar Cheena, Seri-sar, Sikandaro, Kohimore and Navy Dhand, Masjid Androon Khar and Eidgah Masjid Khar are some historical, archaeological and tourist places.
When to visit (Seasons)04 seasons are observed here in Khar subdivision. The area shows its most attractive look in the spring season and the mountainous ranges attracts the viewers in the winter and snowfall. 
Where to visit (Location of the tourist spots)Gabbar Cheena, Seri-sar, Sikandaro, Kohimore and Navy Dhand, Masjid Androon Khar and Eidgah Masjid Khar are some historical, archaeological and tourist places. Northern hillocks of Salarzai and Serisar of Arang can be visited in the winters for heavy snowfall.
How to get there (Travel plan)The areas can be visited by motorcar (fielders), Jeeps and pickups.
Food facilityWheat and maize are the major crops of the subdivision.
What to do (Traveling , Fishing, hunting , etc)Talay dam can be visited for fishing and the Raghagan dam can also be declared as fishing site after completion of the project
Favorite Shopping itemNaswar/ snaps, walnut, mustard oil and honey

Nawagai Sub-Division (Tehsil Nawagai)

Introduction

Nawagai Sub Division is a Sub-Division of Tribal District Bajaur. It consists upon 05 Tehsils of Bajaur i.e. Tehsil Loe Mamund, Tehsil Wara Mamund, Tehsil Nawagai and Tehsil Chamarkand, which are adjacent to the bordering areas with Afghanistan and Tehsil Barang, which is adjacent to the bordering area of District Malakand.

Geography

Geographically, it holds strategic importance for Pakistan and most of the Tehsil mentioned above are lying in the bordering areas from western wards to Northern wards of the Sub-Division/District.  

Climate

There are four seasons in Nawagai Sub-Division, the climate changes into cold during winter and becomes hot during summer and during the spring the climates becomes normal. The winter season is mostly severe due to excessive rain fall and snowfall. The monsoon rains well here in Nawagai subdivision. 

Culture and Heritage

There is no major and famous cultural heritage in Nawagai subdivision. However, Lungi is the culture of the tribesmen. Hujra and Tang Takor is one of the famous cultural norms.

People and Tribes

The people of Nawagai subdivision are commonly simple, hardworking and devoted. Most of them are linked with the profession of farming. Though, there is no major business and the ratio of businessmen is very low, however, some people are engaged with the business of vehicles bargaining and property dealing. There are two major tribes i.e. Tarkani and Utmankhel in the Nawagai subdivision. These tribes are further divided in sub-tribes and sections/ subsections.   

Famous Personalities

Political Figures

  1. Mr. Haji Bismillah Khan of Nawagai (Ex-MNA).
  2. Mr. Engineer Shaukat Ullah Khan of Nawagai (Ex-Governor KPK)
  3. Mr. Senator Hidayat Ullah Khan of Nawagai
  4. Mr. Gul Zaffar of Gatki Mamund (PTI, MNA).
  5. Mr. Guldad Khan of Barang (PTI, MNA).
  6. Molvi Guldad Khan of Nawagai
  7. Mr. Shekh Jehan Zada of Nawagai (ANP).

Local Elders

  1. Malik Sultan Zeb of Lar Khalozo.
  2. Malik Muhammad Ayaz Khan of Bar Khalozo.
  3. Malik Taj Muhammad of Tarkho.
  4. Malik Abdul Aziz of Kamar Mamund.
  5. Malik Shahtar Khan of Lagharai.
  6. Malik Niamat Ullah of Lagharai.
  7. Malik Shaheen of Bara Lagharai.
  8. Malik Abdur Rauf of Kamar Sar.
  9. Malik Farooq of Niag.
  10. Malik Aman Ullah of Bar Kamar.

District Specialty

Specialty of the subdivision is that the people of hardworking, devoted and famous of hospitality. They are politically matured.

Attractions

Tourist attractions (Historical, archaeological, tourist.)

Bade Siah, Ghakhi Pass and Kitkot are some historical, archaeological and tourist places.

When to visit (Seasons)

04 seasons are observed here in Nawagai subdivision. The area shows its most attractive look in the spring season and the mountainous ranges attracts the viewers in the winter and snowfall. 

Where to visit (Location of the tourist spots)

Bade Siah, Ghakhi Pass and Kitkot are some historical, archaeological and tourist places.

How to get there (Travel plan)

The areas can be visited by motorcar (fielders), Jeeps and pickups.

What to do (Traveling , Fishing, hunting , etc)

River Panjkora in Tehsil Barang can be visited for fishing.

Favorite Shopping item

Naswar/ snaps, walnut, mustard oil and honey

Natural Resources

IndicatorsDetails
RiversRiver Panjkora crossing some areas of Tehsil Barang.
StreamsThere is no streams in other Tehsils of Nawagai Sub-Division, however, Wach Khwari are available in some areas of the Tehsils, in which water flows during storm seasons/rains flood.    
Lakes / DamsThere is no lacks and Dams in Nawagai Sub-Division.
ForestNatural forest in the hillock of Loe Mamund, Wara Mamund, Tehsil Barang, Nawagai and Chamarkand.
LandscapeThe whole land is the mixture of hillocks, plains (agricultural land) and rivers.
Land StatusThe available land is Barani Agricultural and there is canal agricultural system only on sides of the rivers.
SpringsThere are no springs in Nawagai Sub-Division.  
PondsThere are no ponds in Nawagai Sub-Division. 
KaraizNil
MineralsMineral department will be in better position to explain. Mineral/quarries at Barang, Nawagai and Loe Mamund.

Markets

There are Four Major Bazars in Nawagai Sub-Division one Tehsil Nawagai at HQ of the Tehsil and the rest of Bazars are located in Tehsil Mamund Kamar Sar Bazar, Lagharai Bazaar, Meena Bazaar.

Public Transport

There is no specific public transport, however, the private NCP vehicles and other registered vehicles range from busses to Motor Cars are being used as means of transportation.

Graveyard

Graveyards have been allocated by the locals on the basis of their respective villages and specific areas.

Registered Automobile bargains

Though there are a lot of automobile bargains in the subdivision, however, there is no registered bargain in the area.

Rest House

At Seri Sar and Ghakhi Pass Rest Houses

Tehsil Ambar Utmankhel

Ambar Utmankhel Tehsil is located in Mohmand District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. The population is 62,109 according to the 2017 census.

Tehsil Barang

Barang is a Sub-Division of Tribal District Bajaur. (Tehsil Barang)

Tehsil Utmankhel

Utmankhel Tehsil is a subdivision located in Bajaur District, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. The population is 107,356 according to the 2017 census. Utmankhel Subdivision borders Munda Tehsil, Lower Dir District. Utmankhel Subdivision is considered to be the safest subdivision in Bajaur District.

For detail information visit: www.bajaur.com